Jacumba Hot Springs

It was my birthday the other day, on the sixth if you didn't know. Happy birthday! Thank you, thank you. 

The only good thing about turning sixty eight is all the people even older than you telling you that you are just a kid. 

Right.  A kid. 

Then why does everything hurt and why am I starting to walk like a certain deputy on Gunsmoke?

Anyway this kid decided to drive out to Jacumba Hot Springs on Thursday to, as they used to say, take the mineral waters, or the schvitz, I guess, depending on where your ancestors hailed from.

I had heard that it was a happening place and had driven out to take a look a month ago or so. 

Interesting story, three friends from the city buy the place and create a very chill resort. 

Check out the article in Travel and Leisure.

Where is it?

Way out in the East County, past Campo. 

Very much like our underlying Fallbrook terrain but more expansive, more granite, more cottonwoods, less people, less trash and more funky fun. 

It was a major spa destination in the 1920's but lost its bearings when the new freeway was built and it was cut off from the world.

Quite a few movies were shot down there.

A lot of people have found it, we met regulars from both San Diego and Phoenix there, not very many angelenos there, which pardon me for saying, made it a bit more chill.

We have hit pretty much all the hot springs resorts in California in our time, Two Bunch, Hacienda, El Morocco, Casa Del Zorro (not hot springs but close) O, Murrietta, Glen Ivy, Desert Hot Springs, Au Soleil, honestly more than we can count.

I think that this one has risen to the top of my list. I like the clean, tasteful and spacious rooms, the layout is not too expansive so you don't have to walk a mile to eat, the food was great, the staff was friendly and helpful, and it was not too expensive, about $240 for a weekday night and we paid a bit extra for a late checkout.

I am not sure if there was a sauna or not but that's not a dealbreaker for me. We heard no upselling for facials or massages or any of that sort of stuff. It seems designed for normal people and not for spoiled patricians who need excessive pampering so they can bitch about having their poached eggs overcooked or whatever.

So I guess I am getting ahead of myself. We had a very pleasant drive east on the 8 from El Cajon, after stopping for a quick lunch at Spicy City on Convoy.

We got on the old Interstate 80 and drove about five miles until we arrived at the resort. 

You check in at an old airstream, which makes for a neat office.

Place has a Morocco meets burning man vibe.

The bar is decidedly low brow, appointed with mostly kitschy nudes by people like Vincent. 

I once had a chance to buy about fifty of his paintings but they were so schlocky I passed.

Now I guess they bring real money.

Who knew?

The dining room has similarly bad smoke tree paintings which look charming in their sheer number and innocence.

But hey, enough art dealer snobbery, we were there to chill and to sit in the pool, which we did. 

One for day guests and one for those spending the night.

Our room was way nicer than I expected, I think that even my more aristocratic friends would approve. 

Spacious, every amenity you could desire, rabbinic robes included. 

No television but a turntable in every room, with some very cool curated world beat type music.

Alcohol, if that is the way you roll.

I guess the prevailing style is mid century funk, not necessarily my wheelhouse but I am down with it.

Would be a fun place to shroom if that was your predilection.

Maybe the energy vortex advert would make sense all of a sudden?

Of course we were there for the water. 

And it was wonderful. 

Often had the pools to ourselves. 

What a great place to relax.

I loved the jacuzzi, which is located in what is known as the Echo Room. 

Architecturally, think James Hubbell meets Irving Gill and the Flintstones.

We met some very nice people there, pretty much everybody we encountered was wonderful, with the exception of one dour and heavily inked young couple who refused to make eye contact with anybody.

Their loss.

There is a manmade lake bubbling up from the natural springs located about two blocks away.

This was all prime Kumeyaay land and the natives definitely knew where the best spots were to hang.

Saw some very interesting birds out there including two ospreys.

The area is rich with wildlife.

We met a San Diego mom and her two kids that liked to soak there. 

Next time I take the plunge. 

A warm lake sounds quite enchanting.

Need to remember to take two bathing suits next time.

A couple was flying an enormous kite near the lake.

What else?

Loved the food. 

Had lamb meatballs with a harissa sauce and a mezze plate the first night, two starters.

Leslie had a nice verdant cocktail whose particular components now escape me.

It was fun walking around the town, which was barely hanging on and is now in the midst of a rebirth.

Would we go back?

In a heartbeat, and soon. 

The sun, the water, the remote location, it all adds up to the ideal alembic for relaxation.

We decided to drive back on the Sunrise Highway through Mt. Laguna and Julian, stayed pretty and wild until we were practically back at our front door.

What a wonderful way to celebrate a birthday, in warm waters with the woman I love!