I have been on a duck binge lately and thought I would head in that direction again for tonight's dinner. But I also thought that it was time to really pull out all the stops and make a meal I could be proud of. A complicated meal.
My initial plan was duck with a cherry sauce, glazed carrots and dauphinoise potatoes. Upon discussing the meal with my spouse the potatoes were ixnayed, too fattening.
I got home at about four o'clock and started working my prep. I was going to make Adam Byatt's glazed carrots with star anise and I tried to do the cute little thing he does paring the end of them and failed. I needed bunch carrots, not commercial carrots. Now I know.
Did the best I could.
I then prepped my yukon gold potatoes. I would make the long Kenji Lopez Alt version. I boiled in baking soda and water for about eighteen minutes and when they had passed the knife test. I drained them in the colander, then sauteed olive oil, garlic, fresh chopped rosemary in a small pan for about three minutes.
I put a sieve over the potatoes and poured in the infused oil and added a little butter and parmesan.Salt and pepper for good measure.
Cayenne and paprika, a bit of parsley.
I reserved the solids for later.
I tossed the whole thing and fluffed it all up.
Then I stuck it on a baking sheet and grabbed the duck fat out of the fridge and gave the sheet pan a healthy dose.
Stuck it in the oven at 400° for twenty minutes, then a turn with the spatula for another thirty minutes.
It was time to start on the duck.
Once again I was amalgamating two recipes, Ina Garten's and James Beard's.
I omitted the demi glace and the creme fraiche because I could. No shallots because my wife doesn't like them.
I crosshatched my duck breasts with a sharp paring knife and rendered them in a cold Le Creuset skillet. They had been brining in a heavy salt rub for about twenty four hours in the refrigerator. After about seven minutes they joined the potatoes in the hot oven for about four minutes. Clocked them at 135° and they went on a plate on my dining room table to wait.
Now the sauce. I was going to do a port reduction but Grocery Outlet was out of port and I decided to go with what I had. Why buy more stuff? Red wine would be fine.
I used the same skillet, why not? and added some olive oil and garlic to sauté for about thirty seconds. Hit it with champagne vinegar to loosen up the burned bits, not the sherry vinegar that was called for because I have eight vinegars already in my cupboard and didn't need to add another one. Almost went with the rice vinegar or the red wine vinegar but the champagne worked just fine.
I then added a half cup of chicken stock and a cup of a bordeaux wine that I opened for the meal, Chateau Fontana.I let it reduce at a boil for a few minutes and added my dry cherries which I had been soaking in brandy all afternoon.
They really plumped up.
I added orange zest, squeezed a half a valencia orange from my tree and a splash of Grand Marnier for good measure.
I cooked and reduced it down for about fifteen minutes.
Boy was it delicious. The rest is going on ice cream.
I started the glazed carrots, added two star anise, butter and sugar and placed my handmade paper cartouche in the pot.Cooked it for ten minutes at high heat.
It glazed okay but it will be better next time and I will omit the anise.
I expected more from the dish, frankly.
Honestly think it needs more sugar and butter.
I plated the duck, poured on the sauce and joined my wife for dinner.She said they were the best potatoes I have ever made, crisp outside and soft, creamy centers.
It was a satisfying yet complicated undertaking and I am proud that my timing on everything was letter perfect.
Took a bit over three hours, not counting some prep.
I honestly think you could serve this meal at a fine restaurant and it would set you back about fifty or sixty dollars.
Watch out, here I come.





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